After writing the following facebook status “I have been living in California for over a year and have only gone to LA once” I got to thinking about taking a trip down to LA. The last time I went to LA I stayed in Venice, Los Feliz and Long Beach so I really didn’t get a good feel for the Pico hood and I wanted to check out the shuls and scene this time, so I drove down for shabbos and I was pleasantly surprised, my stereotypes, based on everyone telling me that LA is a pit of materialism and vanity vanished once I got to see the frum community for myself.
One of the biggest problems with driving to LA from the Bay Area is the fact that the quickest way is also quite boring, so instead of taking Interstate 5 the whole way, I took a small state route which runs between I5 and Highway 101, route 25 winds it’s way through the Cholome Mountain Range which was very green and filled with random cattle ranches. I passed one sign that told me there were no services for 76 miles – now that’s my kind of road. When I hopped on the 5 I was only a few hours from LA.
I got to LA at about 10pm on Thursday night and was desperate to eat milchigs, something really cheesy, I work at a very meat intensive restaurant and the big impetus for coming to LA was to eat some pizza and maybe some pasta – both of which I can’t get in the Bay Area. So I met my buddy at Cafe Nana, one of the few places open that late and I was crushed by the terrible menu, regardless we got an eggplant parm, fettucini alfredo and mozerella sticks – I wasn’t expecting anything too great so I wasn’t disappointed by the taste of the food as much I normally would be.
The problem with becoming a cook at a good restaurant, coupled with living in the pretentious foodie capitol of the US, is that I have to be careful not to expect too much. Cafe Nana is a low level restaurant with low level food catering to frum people. I could tell the clientele by just looking at the fish offerings – they have the 4 frummy fishes – talapia, salmon, tuna and chilean sea bass and everything seemed to be generic stuff. Admittedly the eggplant was decent, but it was $12 for a slice of eggplant with cheese on it. When my friend ordered a glass of wine they damned near filled the thing to the top.
For desert my friend took me to Toppings, one of the strangest kosher ice cream shops I have ever been in. The place was immaculate, the colors were cool and there was a line of self serve frozen yogurt machines, the man behind the topping counter gave us samples and I started saying to no one in particular that such a system would never work in New York, I myself just tried some samples and didn’t need to buy anything. At Toppings, everything is charged by weight, you get a cup fill it with ice cream and then choose from some wonderful toppings, like cookie dough flakes and little cheesecake squares which were delicious.
On Friday, my friend a fellow blogger Eliyahu Fink took me to Pizza Maven in Hancock Park, the frummy side of town. I wass marveling at the sites as I drove to the place. There were women in sheitles walking dozens of children all dressed in the same outfits, men in hats with peyos behind their ears and teams of high school girls drinking slurpies. I was getting my frum on, I felt almost exactly the same exact feelings I used to have when I would take a drive from Rochester to New York once every few months – it was the same 5 hour drive and it brought me to a whole new world. I remember thinking how fun NY was and always looking forward to getting the hell out of there. LA is the same way, I love the frummies, I love eating the food and looking at all the super cutties (LA is home to the best pritzus in America) but I thank God that I don’t live there. LA, like New York, is way too urban for me.
So Pizza Maven wasn’t too great, it’s good to eat pizza and look at frummies and the place was too clean to be a New York pizza store in a frum neighborhood. The guy behind the counter was a friendly older Boro Parker who shot the shit with everyone who ordered anything, but the pizza was a bit lame – too much dough, not enough cheese and no crunch. The mozerella sticks were lame – they seemed like they were from the package and ridiculously overpriced for what they were – I still maintain that the best kosher cheese sticks are made in Jerusalem Pizza in Detroit.
After lunch I went for a 30 mile ride on my bike from the place where I was staying in Pico to Santa Monica and around Venice, LA is not a cyclists paradise, in fact it’s the closest thing to hell I’ve ever experienced, I was honked, yelled at and multiple times cars would try and force me off the road or scare me by driving very close – it was definitely not a pleasant ride until I got to Santa Monica which is beautiful and traffic free. On my ride I felt like I was in a different state, LA is that much different than the Bay Area. Everyone is rushing everywhere and everyone is driving fancy cars and wearing nice clothing. It’s quite rare that I see anyone dressed up in the Bay and everyone drives corollas around here.
I had specific directives from friends, fans and confidants as to which shuls I should check out. Shul hopping crossed me mind, but you really cannot get the full feel of a shul when you stay for only a short while. On Friday night I went to the Happy Minyan, I was told there would be girls and I knew it would be a similar feel to the Carlebach shul and people were right.
The Happy Minyan was the happiest shul I’ve ever been to, everyone was hugging, dancing and smiling the whole time – it wasn’t just about the post lecha dodi dancing, this was full on happiness. It was also one of the most diverse minyanim I have ever seen. There were chassidim, yeshivish, modern orthodox, hippies and everything in between and lots of baalei teshuva. The age of the crowd was also a big range and the only disappointment I had was the fact that you couldn’t see the ladies. The mechitza was full heights and you could sillouhettes, but full on bodies were not visible and I was kind of mad. So during the post lecha dodi dance I stopped by the curtains and stuck my full head inside the ladies section for a good view – there were definitely some hotties in there and none of them were dancing which I found strange.
For shabbos shachris I chose to go to B’nai David, some folks told me it was a super left wing modern orthodox shul that would provide a lot of material. I have noticed that many people have different views of places when they haven’t actually been there, I didn’t get a lot of material there – though I intend to do a full review of the shul and it wasn’t super left wing at all. However, I should note that it was an extremely friendly and welcoming shul, something I haven’t experienced much in the modern orthodox community. Not only did multiple people say good shabbos to me, I was invited out for lunch and got an aliyah – but look for the full review in the next few days. Oh and their cholent was amazing and I saw Esther Kustanowitz at kiddush at we did some schmoozing which was nice.
I made my way back to Happy Minyan to meet up iwth Rabbi Yonah and his crew. I made it back just on time for kiddush and got to sample another decent meat cholent, not as good as the one at B’nai David, but not bad all. The meal at Rabbo Yonah’s on the other hand was one of those huge deals that I haven’t been to in a while, the sala course was enough by itself, loads of good wine and some mighty fine ladies to look at, definitely not to date because they all seemed to be on their way up on the BT indoctrination scale.
On shabbos afternoon I went with my host to daven at Aish, which is probably the most yeshivish offering in the Pico hood. When I walked in, this kid walks up to me and tells me that he’s probably the only yeshiva bucher fan – I told he wasn’t, there were loads of other yeshiva kids looking at my stuff.
It was good to get my frummy on, I had exactly the same feelings of the whole thing as when I lived in upstate NY. Great to visit LA and great to get the hell out of there and come back to the paradise that Northern California is.
FYI: After shabbos, I hopped over to Luke Ford‘s house so we could do a live streaming interview, over 100 people entered the chat room to watch, chat with each other and ask me questions directly – it was a lot of fun despite the fact that I was losing my voice due to a cold. Recordings of the interview should be available on You Tube soon.
Luckily Mr. Ford went out with me to Nagilla to see if anyone would show up to hang out for the LA Meetup no one ever did. Since I received about a dozen emails and FB messages claiming interest, I figured about 3 people would show up. Based on my event organizing experience, about one quarter of the people who claim they will show up, actually show up. So I ate pizza, they like theirs underdone and I do too so it was good and there were loads of frummy girls and chabad kids to look at. Then I walked around and ended up tasting the worst Mexican food I’ve ever had – the Takosher (kosher taco truck – that has some shady hechsher, because there’s no mashgiach temidi – I realized this afterward) I could have made Mexican food way better than they did and I was extremely disappointed.
On Sunday morning it took me forever to find a bagel shop, not a fancy pastry shop with panninis and over priced danishes, just a regular bagel shop and when I did, the everything bagels were literally encrusted with every topping possible at the Bagel Factory on Robertson, I hate caraway seeds, but it was good to actually eat an everything bagel.
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BTW I do believe that the foodie capitol of the US is Boulder, CO if I am not mistaken?
Not even close. The Bay Area is the food mecca of the US with every element of gastronomical delight at hand. The best vineyards, organic farms, farmers markets, restaurants, chefs, bakeries, and ethnic cuisine by far.
It must suck keeping Kosher there.
Dunno about the restaurant scene, but if you do your own cooking it must be great for ingredients.
The problem with knowing how to cook is that your expectations are always higher. Especially if you are a BT that experienced great food before becoming Kosher. Unless you are from NY, most cities have sub-standard kosher eateries. All the FFBs think the simplest of menus is great because they’ve never experienced really great food. Take the SUBWAY on Pico for example. That place is always packed and every one I know has gotten food poisoning from there and said it sucked! Yet the FRUM community is in awe that a treif place is now kosher so they blow their money on junky food!
Funny that Pizza Maven is still around, I used to go there back when I was in Yeshiva in L.A. 20 years ago. Was overpriced, but in short walking distance. I remember them charging an extra fee for every topping, something I’d never seen up until that point. Guy was a friendly old dude, I can’t imagine he’s still there as well.
He’s still there!
LA food is not that great. Pats is good but would be considered an average eatery in the secular world. Pico Kosher Deli (PDK) has great food but it is very expensive. Other than that, LA is a let down on food. LA doesn’t know how to make good thin crusted italian pizza. Negilla and Pizza Maven are sub-standard. The issue like you said, is that once you know how to cook well you have higher standards.
Fantasy: win the lottery and live in Santa Monica where I ride my bike only and never ever get on any LA highway. Just fly away when necessary
Is it my imagination or do LA frummies seem flashier than their NY coreligionists?
In LA there is a reason to be flashy…at least if your living in Santa Monica. Dorot, do you have a facebook account that I can this smart gal who loves Santa Monica…my fav.
Filled the wine glass to the top? My kind of place. I can’t tell the difference between dry wines. They all taste nasty. Now some sweetened Kedem wine… Ahhh!
The only time I order wine is to get through an uncomfortable meal. Give me the one with the most alcohol, and fill ‘er up.
Toppings is the kosher answer to the Yogurtland chain. Peep scene at the Berekely, Cupertino, or other bay area locations, and I’m sure they’ll be packed.
Have you checked out Laguna Beach or CDM? Much nicer than Long Beach…
heshy, where in cali are u based and what r u doing there??
I’m in San Jose and I’m a cook
heh… b’nai david ‘super left wing’–must be the same folks who told you that all you would find at the the sf sephardic beyt kinessets were russian alter kochers
Pico and Hancock Park are over-rated. Leave the “Han” out of Hancock and you probably have it right.
People in the city or “over the hill” as we valley people call it have their noses in the air and their heads in their tuchas. It’s too stuffy over there.
You should come to the valley next time. But not Sharaai Tzedek…
and you, by contrast, sound very non-judgemental…
It seems that you missed out on the best places to eat in Los Angeles. A big secret is that New Yorkers run the place and unless you think NY is the bomb, as far as food that is what you get (not my fav admittedly I usually not in the mood for rude tasteless food). The valley is a little different, in the Valley be prepared to taste Israeli style food (they really don’t know what a hamburger is supposed to tasted like) each place knows they are one of the only kosher places to eat in town so you will spend more than an hour waiting for a simple glass of water.
There is the few places such as Bramii’s pizza and the Brand New Burger Garden and Continental Bakery that are influenced only by the surrounding area and in my opinion are going to be the great stars of the valley if they don’t go under first. Also check out the various fish places most of them are really good.
Next time you’re down here you need to come do Shabbat Conservative and observant style. At Beth Am you can choose from three different minyanim in one place, and some weeks 4. There’s no mechitza but I promise I won’t put my hand on your knee and people are very down to earth. I don’t find my minyan snooty at all. The commenter from the valley must know that many of us in PiRo ARE originally from the valley and couldn’t stand white suburbia anymore (at least not I).
We like Pizza Station the best. My only complaint is they don’t have fakeroni anymore. The DO have damn good $2 tacos and Mexican food in general; and I know this because I wasn’t always kosher and have had REAL Mexican food in LA, San Diego, Mexico–i.e. GOOD Mexi food!
I LOVE Bagel Factory and actually picked up two dozen for my work colleagues today. I enjoy their everything bagel but agree with you-I prefer more garlic less carraway. BUT…texture, size, toastability are all delish there.
I live not even a 5 minute walk to Toppings but haven’t tried it yet. Bet you didn’t realize we lived SO close.
Last thoughts…LA is urban, no doubt. BUT, there is community and friendliness in our little neighborhoods and it’s not hard to get out of the hustle and bustle. There are the mountains in Griffith Park, Santa Monica, Pasadena, etc. Lots of little canyons to get away in and as far as biking, lots of tricks there too. Did anyone tell you that there is a bike path about 3 miles from Pico Robertson that you can hop on and it will take you to the beach and keeps going!
I’m sure Mr. Frum Satire would love to spend his shabbos in a city with a large diverse orthodox population in an actual orthodox shul. He could get the mega conservative/ashkenazi-cantor-pronouncing-sav-as-tav/4 hour service experience in a slew of SF/Bay Area places on any shabbos morning.
Also – as you probably know, the kiddush at most (all?) conservative shuls are not kosher to normative standards as well.
Pizza Station has the vegeroni again! It is so good with pineapple and sauteed onions or olives and corn (I know, I probably stand alone in that last one)! They do indeed have rocking Mexican. I don’t know why it is so often overlooked for the glitzier Nagilla. It is a gem and the people who work there are super friendly, helpful, and honest.
maybe he wanted to daven where halacha permits one to enter…..
Next time you should take Route 1 for the really awesome driving experience.
Done that way twice
the owner of pizza maven is a widow…his wife passed away about 10 years ago and his pizza store is now all hes got. may be slow service, but the pizza is somewhat decent and isn’t made by mexicans. show some sympathy
by the way b;nai david cholent sucks big time. it’s freakin veggie. no meat.
It was chock full of meat and the meat was very marbled and full of flavor.
Heshy was lucky enough to visit on a meat cholent day. Heshy – I’m surprised you didn’t make it to Jeff’s. It’s de rigeur for kosher foodies visiting L.A.
Heshy, I don’t know the people who took you around LA but they did a terrible job! (no offense). Why would you go to nagila pizza? the same goes for pizza maven.
Even the “shuls” that you went to are crazy to go to if your looking for girls. Try out Sola, it’s a very modern chabad shul with a lot of hotties
Why didn’t you try Fish Grill? I loved it.
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