I really haven’t been here long enough to write a post, but I just wanted to get something down so I can compare it to something I will most probably write later, should I stay here, as of now I don’t think I will be here too long- my company called me while I was driving to tell me that they were closing the Dallas office and that I can go anywhere I want – in which case I will be going to Boulder, Colorado (my dream town with Jews) unless Missoula, Montana gets a chabad anytime soon.
So with that in mind I bring to you my thoughts concerning Dallas, Texas. I entered Texas yesterday after a day of driving the back roads of Arkansas and Oklahoma. I haven’t been in Arkansas since 2001 so that was a treat – although I shouldn’t have gone because I liked it much when I had first visited then yesterday. The temperature did rise until I had all my windows open in Oklahoma driving through some beautiful flatlands with the sun setting slowly into the distant horizon.
I stopped for a Mincha on Texas state highway 37 and could not believe the warmth and the sweet smells, I had just driven through a snowstorm in Michigan the day before. The back roads in Texas have a 70 mph speed limit so I was just cruising along listening to the dead and marveling at the fact that I was finally going on a one way road trip.
My mood was spoiled as I entered Paris, Texas on US highway 82, though Missouri and Ohio take the cake for huge billboards and gas stations blocking your view, Texas takes the cake for variety and endless shopping centers. I drove south along US highway 75 and could not believe how many strip plazas and stores there were.
I was still 60 miles from Dallas when it began, the billboards, the signs, the lights and the strip plazas choking out all possible life. Imagine Route 4 or 17 in New Jersey with all the stores on the sides, now take those roads and put an 8 lane super highway in the middle of it- its quite insane.
At least the drivers are cordial, no one would think of using their horn, no such thing as tailgaters and no one does any sort of road rage. I drove and drove past malls and big box chain stores until I hit the Campbell ave exit which forced me out onto another highway – known locally as a service road – these aren’t normal service roads- they are full fledged highways.
Prior to meeting up with my new landlord/housemate, I went to Cafe Fino’s which is one of the milchig restaurants in Dallas, Dallas has 6 kosher places and several other food outlets which I will get to in a bit. Cafe Fino’s is open till 9pm which rocks because I am used to showing up at out of town establishments and finding them closed way too early.
I already went to Cafe Fino’s twice, being that it is the easiest place to get to from where I am living. You can tell right away based on the service that you are not in NY, it is impeccably friendly, the kind of friendly that makes you smile to yourself.
I think it was the first time I have been treated nicely by someone with a bluetooth in their ear, I ordered the eggplant parm hoagie which came with fries, the sandwich was amazing, but tonight I had something even better- I bought a 12 inch pizza – (this is not a paid advertisement, I doubt they knew I wrote about this stuff) but their pizza was simply some of the best I have ever had.
I used to like Jerusalem Pizza in Detroit, but that was mainly for their cheese sticks which have dropped some serious quality since the last time I ate their, but Cafe Fino’s pizza was amazing, the crust was homemade and tasted so much fresher and non-generic then NY pizza which pretty much all tastes the same (I am sure you can argue it out- but NYC pizza has a general taste to it) and it had loads of cheese.
So I’m full stomached and tired from a full days worth of wandering and I pull up in front of my new house on a beautiful side street full of beautiful houses and green lawns with strange looking trees. The house is enormous compared to what I just moved out of. It is awfully cozy with this plush soft carpet all around and it has a nice backyard and lawn. 2400 sq feet and the rpice of these things is less then $175,000 – now if you like New Jersey and driving everywhere I don’t understand why more people don’t move here.
Seriously, I am told Dallas has 1000 frum families, its dirt cheap to live here and it has all the amenities of home. Oh and gas is $1.75 a gallon. So I get set up in my new house and wait for a bright day to wander the city and try and figure out how long I am going to be here.
I could never live in a place like this – is all I am thinking as I merge from one super highway to the next, the highways in Texas are a marvel in themselves, have you ever seen a 5 level interchange? Oh my Lord the interchanges between highways are enormous, I guess thats what happens when land is so cheap and vast.
I drove 25 miles to my office and if I wouldn’t have gotten lost it would have taken 20 minutes. Its true, everything is bigger in Texas. I cannot stop thinking about the highways, they are super smooth and huge, but at the same time I was thinking – I feel like I am in New Jersey – but at least New Jersey has accessible mountains – the mountains in Texas are all in the west- might as well live in New Mexico or Colorado if your already out there.
So instead of work today I hit up the largest public skatepark in Texas located in Allen – it was insane and empty and I had a ball, I also figured out that I may be developing excersize induced asthma which sucks because I need to get one of those inhalers and I don’t have insurance. Maybe Obama will come through and give me some.
I got lunch at Tom Thumbs, now Tom Thumbs reminds me of Wegmans- or any other large chain grocery store in an upscale neighborhood. You walk in and are greeted with fresh baked goods and all sorts of gourmet stands besides for the regular grocery. But at Tom Thumbs its all kosher – I couldn’t believe it.
I bought some sushi which was some of the best sushi I have ever had, and I have eaten loads of sushi in my day. Then I went to the bakery and picked up some danishes. Then I turned the corner and found sticky homemade cinnamon buns and I almost flipped my lid. The women asked if I wanted a sample- I obliged and she proceeded to cut one in half and give it to me- wow!!!
I then wandered around Uptown Dallas which is a very impressive neighborhood, the buildings were beautiful and looked nothing like upscale neighborhoods I am used to. The colors are lighter due to the southwest environment and the tall buildings had this ornate and imposing feel to them. The architecture in uptown Dallas and the highland park areas is very interesting and definitely worth a look if that is your kind of thing.
This post really has nothing to do with the Jewish community which I have nothing to do with as of yet. I did go to Chabad for mimcha and maariv tonight I am walking distance to the Yeshiva, chabad and Chofetz Chaim shul. But as a an active person who likes the woods, Dallas is definitely not the place for me- and my new roommate said the same thing.
33 responses so far ↓
1 Meredith // Nov 18, 2008 at 9:38 pm
It’s Tom Thumb, not Tom Thumbs. But the food there is pretty amazing. Best grocery store ever.
2 Phil // Nov 18, 2008 at 9:53 pm
Not much real woods in Texas, all their lakes and reservoirs are manmade too. You should check out the TPWD (texas parks and wildlife) website, that was the first thing I did when I moved there and had to locate some good fishing spots. I must say they did a great job of stocking their waters in the 50s and have some great fisheries today. My favorite spot was Lake Texoma, bordering Oklahoma up HWY 75, about 60 miles North of Dallas. Part of it is in the Eisenhower state park, and it borders the Red River at the Dennison dam.
If you like biking and want to avoid the feel of the concrete jungle, try white rock lake, it’s decent for Dallas standards, just watch out for the “loco” mexicans after dark.
Albertsons, Minyards and Tom Thumb all have kosher bakeries and deli under supervision of the Dallas Vaad.
Looking for some Texas style entertainment after Shabbos, try heading to the stockyards in Fort Worth. Billy Bobs is the world’s largest honky tonk, they even have a bull riding arena in the bar.
Deep Ellum is the Dallas hot spot for night life, though I must warn you that many bars have toilet stalls without doors. Not sure why this is, but make sure you take care of business before getting there if you’re finicky about crapping in public.
3 Frum Satire // Nov 18, 2008 at 10:03 pm
Phil I had no idea you lived in Texas- thanks for the stockyards tip maybe I’ll meet someone to go with.
4 yeshiva guy in TTI // Nov 19, 2008 at 1:14 am
whats up me and my friends watch your clips, they are awesome, we want to meet you some time, come anytime to tti (chofetz chaim) anytime till ten pm. adeyyose amigo
5 Another Guy in Texes Torah Institute // Nov 19, 2008 at 1:22 am
just wanna tell you- Shachris during week is 7:40
mincha-2:45
maariv-6:35 & 10:00
shachris on sunday is 8:00
P.S. If you have time, come to the shmooz… wednesdays, right after mincha. (3:00)
come and learn too… whenever you want.
6 Pnina Weiss // Nov 19, 2008 at 4:45 am
I grew up in Dallas where my father was a Rabbi for 13 years – WAY before there were restaurants, kollels, yeshiva high schools etc.. I havent been back in 15 years and part of me wants to remember it like it was back then. They did have the Kosher bakery at Tom Thumb – that was about it besides the local butcher. My classmates mother used to import frozen pizzas from New York – that was the extent of Kosher food.
But I LOVE the South and you will too, once you get used to it.
7 Left Brooklyn and never looked back // Nov 19, 2008 at 8:59 am
Are you anywhere near Cong. Shaare Tifilla? If you are, you should check it out, Rabbi Perl and his wife Meira are awesome!
8 Phil // Nov 19, 2008 at 9:04 am
Hesh,
I lived there about 10 years ago, for about 1 year.
I can hook you up with some of my friends if you’re interested. My brother in law does some calf roping on weekends, not sure that’s something you want to try right away.
Though he’s not frum, his brother in law from the other side is, and live in Dallas to. Quite funny guy, he might be interested in going there.
I can also hook you up with some of my drinking buddies if you’re into boozing, we had some great times together.
9 Texgator // Nov 19, 2008 at 9:13 am
You are also close to Ohev Shalom and Toras Chaim shuls there in the North Eruv. Lots of davening options for you.
I always enjoyed Fino’s pizza, but I never realized it stacked up so strongly against those in NYC. Good to know, I guess.
The highways are absolutely ridiculous, I had the same impression when I moved here. And it’s not like Florida is lacking major superhighways…but Texas is the king of roadways.
10 Phil // Nov 19, 2008 at 9:23 am
A couple harsh reality checks:
1) You live in a “dry county”, I learned this the frst time I visited. Closest place to buy beer or wine is Collin County (Plano). For hard liquor you’ll have to go further north or South.
2) Highways are a huge mess, so is traffic during rush hour. Just to give you an example, there are two i35’s. One is i35 East and one is i35 West. Both run North – South direction, so it can be very confusing for a newcomer (especially back in the pre-GPS days).
3) Whatever you do, the number one rule is DON”T
11 Phil // Nov 19, 2008 at 9:25 am
A couple harsh reality checks:
1) You live in a “dry county”, I learned this the frst time I visited. Closest place to buy beer or wine is Collin County (Plano). For hard liquor you’ll have to go further north or South.
2) Highways are a huge mess, so is traffic during rush hour. Just to give you an example, there are two i35’s. One is i35 East and one is i35 West. Both run North – South direction, so it can be very confusing for a newcomer (especially back in the pre-GPS days).
3) Whatever you do, the number one rule is DON’T MESS WITH TEXAS! Get busted for a minor issue like you did a few weeks ago, you’re likely to get the death penalty or life in prison.
12 Chana // Nov 19, 2008 at 9:35 am
You should move to California.
Aside for the fact that its on fire, the Valley is probably one of the best places for a Jew to live in the entire world. Its near TONS of amazing kosher restraunts (yes, way better than on the east coast), within walking distance of any ype of shul you could imagine, and has some great spots to hike. Also, if you’re willing to drive 5 hours SF has some amazing hiking spots up in Marin County.
Ohh, and there is no lack of weird people/incidents to blog about down here
13 Chris_B // Nov 19, 2008 at 9:43 am
“Deep Ellum is the Dallas hot spot for night life, though I must warn you that many bars have toilet stalls without doors. Not sure why this is, ”
Deep Ellum is still the night life? I left Dallas in 86 and it was the spot then, cant believe it lasted this long. As for the lack of doors, two things: 1) what men and women do in private they will do wherever, 2) drugs.
14 Phil // Nov 19, 2008 at 9:56 am
Chris -
Deep Ellum was still the place to be last time I was there, probably around 2004-2005.
Re the toilets, I’ve seen this in Texas state parks too, I thought it was some sort of “country/redneck” thing. Then I saw it in a bar, I think the locals are trying to prove that EVERYTHING is bigger in Texas.
15 Texgator // Nov 19, 2008 at 10:20 am
Deep Ellum has hit some hard times as of late. Lots of crime issues and problems with the police. I wouldn’t tell anyone necessarily to stay away, but I’d definetly tell them to be careful.
16 Frum Satire // Nov 19, 2008 at 10:54 am
Chana- I don’t think you have been reading this blog long enough or maybe I have not mentioned it enough- I don’t want a big Jewish community. I moved to Dallas for work and now that I can work wherever I am looking at towns without kosher food and with one minyan. I find myself much more connected when there are little or no religious Jews.
17 Yannai // Nov 19, 2008 at 11:59 am
Welcome to Texas, we’ve been in Houston for several months now (from Calgary, Canada which might fit your lifestyle requirements immigration issues aside). Let me know if you ever need a place to stay/eat in Houston. I’ll even whip out the deep-fryer for you.
18 Frum Satire // Nov 19, 2008 at 12:26 pm
Calgary also has issues- maybe I should do a post explaining what cities I love and which I hate.
19 Phil // Nov 19, 2008 at 12:36 pm
As far as Canadian Cities, my bet for you would be Vancouver.
20 Yannai // Nov 19, 2008 at 12:44 pm
How long have you spent in Calgary? I don’t remember ever seeing you around. How bad can we be, we’re only 7 hours from Missoula?
21 Greg // Nov 19, 2008 at 3:05 pm
If you haven’t tried Cafe Fino’s Fino Fries yet (they are the ones that covered in cheese and gravy), try them now. Actually, make sure you’re not doing anything for about 24 hours afterwards, and then try them. They are amazing.
There is also a really good Israeli place, dont remember the name, but the felafel is home made and incredible. There is an Indian place that is kosher by default, I was not so happy with it, but that’s just me.
22 Texgator // Nov 19, 2008 at 3:53 pm
Israeli place is Cafe Carmel, I like it a lot but you do have to deal with the typical Israeli style service. The Indian restuarant, Madras Pavilion, isn’t too bad, IMO. It’s not just Kosher by default, they have certification from Dallas Kosher….my Indian coworker assures me it’s the real deal and a place she takes her family when they visit. Someone needs to open up a Kosher Chinese place….that would kill here.
23 Renah // Nov 19, 2008 at 4:09 pm
If you ever get the chance, check out Canton First trades days. Canton is 40 minutes east of Dallas, between Dallas & Tyler. It is an awesome flea market, bigger than anything you have ever seen before. Trades days occures the First Monday of every month, rain or shine- & you will be amazed at the goddies you can find there. Warning- bring comfy walkking shoes, because if you go- you will be there all day, just walking around & checking things out.
24 What War Zone??? // Nov 19, 2008 at 5:13 pm
Welcome to my hometown! What kind of work are you doing? Sorry I don’t know any frummies to introduce you to.
Benji
25 Phil // Nov 19, 2008 at 7:51 pm
Greg,
Fries covered in cheese gravy are called poutine (pronounced like the Russion ex president), as French Canadian invention.
Texgator, Not sure everyone trusts the Madras place as far as kashrus. Although the vaad gave it a hechsher, that was before any Jewish kosher restaurants existed, and I knew a few Dallas rabbis that wouldn’t eat there. This was due to the fact that there was no permanent mashgiach, and the place was open on Shabbos. Things might have changed by now… As far as trusting Indian cooking, I know people that really enjoy it, personally I owuld be skeptical of eating anything I can’t pronounce or spell.
26 Boulder is Best // Nov 19, 2008 at 11:04 pm
Rocky Mountain High, Colorado
27 Frum Satire // Nov 19, 2008 at 11:20 pm
Boulder is best and if I can find an affordable place to live I am totally moving there- if not- I may have some issues.
28 cady // Nov 20, 2008 at 3:03 pm
I’m de-lurking just to say:
“listening to the dead ”
I like you even more now!
29 big big big // Nov 21, 2008 at 9:29 am
things really ARE bigger in TX: the cars, the people (HUGE), the laughs (LOUD), the houses, the distances from Point A to B, even the sodas (can’t find 2 liter bottles, only 3 liters in the supermarkets)
30 Ann // Feb 8, 2009 at 2:48 am
When I was at the Tom Thumb deli on Coit and Campbell on Wednesday I saw their certification and it had been expired since October of 2008
31 Ann // Feb 8, 2009 at 2:50 am
They said the new one was in the office but they hadn’t brought it out yet
32 What War Zone??? // Feb 8, 2009 at 2:50 am
There’s a travel write-up about Dallas in the NY Times today.
http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/02/08/travel/08hours.html?8dpc
Benji
33 Ann // Feb 8, 2009 at 8:12 pm
Greg – I had the Fino Fries and I had about ten bites and I was full, the best food out of all the restaurants I went to.
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